Is there a better way to end the summer than riding yourself into the ground during the day, and reviving over multi-course Italian dinners at night? I’m not sure I want to know. Because this “Weekend at Bormio’s” gave us everything: iconic climbs, hearty food, and a healthy dose of banter.
It all kicked off with a sunny welcome ride. Most of the group had made it to Bormio without a hitch, all smiles as we rolled along the Adda river. Well, almost all — one of us had decided to extend their stay at Milano Linate Airport thanks to a delayed bike. The rest of us took it easy, knowing what was coming next.
Double Stelvio Friday
One ascent of the Stelvio is a serious day out. We did two. The morning started straight from the hotel, 19 relentless kilometres of climbing to the summit. After a descent into Switzerland via the Umbrail Pass, we came back up from Prato — the longer, arguably tougher side.
The final metres of that second ascent brought drama: one rider overtook another just before the summit. Nothing serious, of course — but the group’s not letting that moment be forgotten anytime soon.
And then there were the cramps. Just 150 metres from the top, one of us doubled over, half-laughing, half-shouting in a mix of English and Swedish. The intent was clear, even if the words weren’t — pure, desperate motivation. (For the record, no one was assisted beyond encouragement. We’re professionals… sort of.)
We layered up for the descent — it gets cold fast above the treeline — and rolled into Val Müstair. Switzerland was brief but beautiful. Then came the climb from Prato, with its infamous “wall” in the final kilometres. Riders spread out, each pacing their own battle up the endless switchbacks. Legs burned, clouds rolled in, but spirits held.
Saturday was “active recovery” – to the Cancano Lakes and Torre di Fraele
A gorgeous, less-trafficked climb with wide views and just enough gradient to stretch out the legs. One of us attacked early and soloed the whole way up, fuelled by a banana, some electrolytes, and pure determination. He earned his stage win.
At the summit, a surprise encounter: a retired tour leader hiking with a group of octogenarians, who told us her life story in ten minutes flat. Turns out one of her companions lived a mile from one of ours. Small world.
Back in Bormio, dinner started with giant cheese balls and didn’t slow down from there. Classic Italian hospitality — enough to fill you up for the rest of the week.
Sunday brought the real test: Mortirolo and Gavia
The Mortirolo is steep, brutal, and unrelenting. No easy rhythm, just switchback after switchback. Riders spread out early, each dealing with the gradient their own way. The descent into Ponte di Legno brought sun and relief — but also the realisation that the day was far from over.
Up next: Passo di Gavia. Longer, a little gentler, but deceptive. Just when you thought the road would ease, it didn’t. The final kilometres brought late attacks, small gaps, and last pushes of energy. Everyone made it. Just. And the descent? Cold, fast, and unforgettable.
By the time we rolled back to the hotel, it was clear: this was a proper cycling weekend. Tired legs, happy hearts, full plates. It had everything.
Next stop? Tuscany’s rolling roads and red wines sounded awfully tempting…
Story adapted with a little help from AI, based on the amazing ride report and photos by our guide Jan Moesen. Full original at tours.tervelo.com.